While the Philips 312 turntable was not considered “high end” in its day it was, and is, a very good entry level TT. Not only that, but it is built well and looks fantastic. It almost has a retro IKEA look to it. The 312 was made in Holland and is a semi-automatic two speed turntable. At the end of the LP the table stops and the arm lifts but does not return to the holder.
Philips also made a model 212 turntable which looks almost exactly the same as the 312 but does not lift the tonearm at the end of a record. It does stop however. The 212’s also used bulbs to light the touch controls instead of the LED’s that were used in the most of the 312’s. Early 312’s have been found to have bulbs as opposed to LED’s though.
The Philips 312 is a belt driven TT and features electronic speed control. The platter and the pick up arm are mounted on to a spring suspended sub-chassis to reduce or eliminate noise from vibration. The sub-chassis is dampened and connected to the main chassis. The power switch for the TT’s is known to fail from time to time and there have been some who have used computer power switches to replace the broken one. Some modification is required but it can be a very effective fix. HERE is a link to a thread covering one such replacement.
Another couple weaknesses of these tables are the RCA connectors and tonearm bearings. The RCA connectors are not very high quality but fortunately they are fairly easy to replace. The tonearm bearings are nylon and can crack with age if they dry out. So, be aware of those problems if you’re looking at 312’s to purchase.
Here you can see the cool lit touch controls that the Philips 312 and 212 are known for. Just a light touch of the button and the turntable will start spinning. If your 312 has bulbs and they are burned out it can be a reason for the touch controls to not work. Bulbs are available from time to time on eBay.
If you’re just getting into vinyl or are on a budget the Philips 312 can be a good choice. It’s easy to use, easy to maintain and has the auto stop function. Plus it will look very cool in your audio setup. When looking at them be sure to check the belt, the bulbs and touch controls, as well as the power switch. Overall, this is a great TT (I have two of them) if you can find one in good working order or one that has been serviced and/or restored.
The 312 can reach $350 in fully restored condition but can be found for around $150-$250 in good working condition.
I’ve got one of these, and I love it. I’m looking for a replacement dust cover. Do you have any idea where I might find one?
Thanks, Sean
I have a Philips 312. it will only play if I stand with a finger on the speed button. The moment I release pressure, the Stop button lights, arm lifts, etc.
Is there a remedy for this?
The problem is probably a bulb/sensor that could have gone bad and now always thinks the arm is at the end. Two options – you need to replace the bulb or adjust a potentiometer on the PCB.
(I am not an expert, so don’t quote me on that) :)
Remove the bulb from the socket should solve your problem. Trimmers on the printed circuit board could change this sensitivity if you turn them. Mind you the trimmers are silver plated and tarnish and short periods of time
I have one that I picked up for $20. I would like to know what the knobs on the right side should be set at, Why is there a ground wire? and how to get my tone arm pick up to fully raise. Oh, a manual would be nice as well
The bottom two knobs adjust the speed of the 45RPM and the 33RPM settings and the top knob is for adjustment of the anti-skate (I think that is what it is). The ground wire should be connected to a ground terminal on your preamplifier/amplifier, this reduces noise. If you do not have a ground terminal, just connect it to any exposed metal part of your amp/preamp. (I keep it under a screw) The manual can be found on VinylEngine. Please be aware that you may need to register to view the pdf.
I’ll tell you how to get our tone arm to fully raise. People keep saying “go to the manual”, which is not helpful at all. You’ll have to unscrew the 3 screws under the TT and carefully lift up. Take your platter off first. It just simply come off by lifting it up and off. When you have the TT lifted up, you will see a flathead screw (mine was grey) underneath the tonearm lift. Turn it to the LEFT ( if memory serves well) to raise it up. You’ll see it raise as you turn the screw. It’s that simple. No manual needed. Now if I can find someone like me to tell me how to fix the “auto-off” function.
Time to replace the button
When was the Philips 212 turntable sold? I still have mine from 1974 and it works just fine. Was able to find a kit on line to replace the belt and such some years ago and bulbs for the speed controller buttons. Just curious?
I’m not sure of the exact years but I’ve heard of people buying the 312 up until 1977. Maybe 1974-1977 or so?
I bought my 312 in May of ’77 with money from our wedding. The power switch went bad some years back and I replaced it with a simple toggle switch. Works. Did replace the belt also. Otherwise, still going now in 2024. 47 years old now.!
Hi. We have Philips 312 model and it was working fine at first but then needle started skipping sort of, don’t know how to explain that..sometimes we tap it and it continues working properly and sometimes you can hear like a far away sound from the record like it’s working but the needle is not touching it right.. Do you know what this could be or refer me to a website that sells parts?
Hi, thanks for a really good guide! I just inherited one of these from my grandfather and it looks like it is in really good shape. The only problem I have faced, is that the button that puts down the stick does not hold, if that makes sense.. The stick won’t stay on the vinyl record unless we hold the button down. Is there an easy and cheap way to fix this?
Also, what would you recommend as an amplifier? We only have the box itself, and no speakers or amplifiers.
Hi there.
Mine 312 has a din connection and is probably an early version. Mine also has a “thing” behind the power switch and I don’t know what it is. I have not seen similar on any pics on the net and I wonder if it could be mounted by a previous owner?
It is a sort of glass sylinder with a steel needle in centre wich rises above the cylinder.
I could have posted a picture if it was possible.
Hi there
I have probably an early version of this, with din connector. Mine has green lights and a glass sylinder behind the power switch with a steel needle rising through and above it. Can anyone tell me what this is? I have’nt seen this on other pics of the 312 around the net.
Regards Ronny
I suspect this is the mount for a type of dust brush, on an arm that follows the grooves.
I just got back my 312’s from the repair shop. The first one had a problem with a capacitor (it wouldn’t respond to the touch switches) and the other got damaged in shipping when I bought it off Ebay a few years ago; it turned out the tone arm was damaged when they shipped it (I got my money back, and the repair was not as expensive). My original 312 has green lights, whereas the second and newer has the redesigned red ones. I bought the greenie in 1977 and used it until about 2010; then I just stored it. My repair guy says the red light version was newer. So I’ve gone from 2 non-functioning 312s to both working. Total repair cost of $140 (I have no idea if that’s a fair price). I always really liked the looks of this TT (silly, huh?) and it seems to do the job, but I’m no high-ender, obviously. No glass cylinder on mine, by the way. I had no idea there were still so many of these around!
I have a 312 that I inherited. I need a new needle/stylist. Does anyone know where to purchase one? or how to figure out what one I need to order?
https://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/catalog/part_detail.asp?PID=P1694
Hello
I have 1 Electronic 312 with green touch controls and 1 electronic 312 with red
leds touch controls
Can I change the green with the red touch controls (voltage)??
I’m needing to replace the auto-stop bulb on an early (green light) 312 but I don’t know where it’s located. Can anyone describe or post a photo? I have the replacement bulb now from eBay source but for the life of me can’t see where it goes when the base is opened…
Here’s my story:
I bought my 212 in college (1973), loved it. Used it until 1980s and then stored it in my living room cabinet. This year (2019) I broke my plasma tv (stupid…) and upgraded to new 4k hdtv etc. My Pioneer Elite would not totally support the new tv, so I bought a Denon x4500 (love it), and new floor Klipsch and surround speakers. Crazy, the Pioneer Elite did not have a phono preamp so I couldn’t use it with the 212 without a separate preamp, and I never bought one. The Denon has one and works well.
I pulled out my 212 to hook up to my Denon, and it still worked. Looks new still. Belt was fine, and all lights and buttons worked. I changed the belt (just because), and replaced the cartridge with a new AT120 (just because), and basically just cleaned it up. I found 2 full boxes of my old LPs (stored inside with the 212), and they are all still in great shape. Ended up buying another 75-100 LPs (newer music – but I still prefer my 60s-70s, rock and country best); and didn’t tell my wife, but she noticed the LPs took up an extra shelf in the living room now. (she’s not happy – oh well… some things are just that important.)
Although the 212 is not top end, it sounds great and works for me. I tried looking for a new TT with autostop features (I don’t need or want the arm to return – just shut off), but can’t find one that makes me want to replace my 212. I like the idea of a top end, and have the $ to buy one, but I really want the autostop feature. So, I really don’t see a reason to switch. Who knew the 212 would last so long, and still work and sound so great.
Gotta go, time to flip the record over.
Great story!
Just took my 312 in from semi-outdoors storage, after 30 years and two moves, to transcribe my vinyl collection to CD. It didn’t want to go at first but then decided I was serious. I had to hold the ’33’ button down for 30 seconds the first time, but it eventually caught. Luckily I had been careful when I put it away and dropped the belt, which would have stretched or broken. Using Shure R25XT cart. Absolutely perfect. Can’t wait to start ‘producing’. What a wonderful choice I made, all those years ago.
I’ve got a 212 I bought around 1976, great table, been stored away for a while and put it to use recently , started out working great but then the platter would not turn. For awhile I could start it by pushing it and it would play. Now I can’t get it to turn at all. No one around here repairs them. Not sure what to do.
Anyone know where to get a replacement dust cover for a ga-222
my 312 cue up/down switch wont stay engaged. pops up during play.
the platter does not stop so I’m thinking its the cue up/down control itself???
any ideas where to find a replacement?
Dear Friends, I am a fan of Wim Winters of Belgium. Authentic Sound, go to YouTube, and he thinks Bach, Mozart, Beethoven and others have speeded up since their music was written, and we need to slow down. Maybe, say, thirty seven percent for some performances. My question is, is there a vinyl playing turntable that you can vary the speed on? Please do not reply, seventy eight, forty five, thirty three and a third. I mean infinitely variable, like twenty six. I also want a turntable which could lower the pitch from say, 440, standard in today’s concert halls, to 421.5, in Mozart’s time. They used to have such things. Do they still exist today? I am eighty years old.
Yes, there is turntable which has possibility to play vinyl LPs slower or faster than standard 33 or 45 RPM. That is LENCO L78.
That turntable has pulley which is linear from 16 to 78 RMP so the idler can reach any position between marked and locking positions for 16-33-45-78 RPM. Long time I have this excellent turntable and I know that this works perfectly. All you have to do is to lift and move speed lever in any position between standard marked positions. Best regards.
does anyone know the part # and where to get the replacement audio jacks for a Philips 312 TT?
I have a Philips GA-212 that I bought new around 1976 as a floor model demo for $99.00 from Pacific Stereo in Denver. It has been used constantly since then and the only replacements were a belt and the power switch. All the green lights still work perfectly 44 years later. I have used 6 different cartridges and am currently using an Audio Technica. I’ve spent more on a cartridge in the past (Sonus, Empire) but the best sound was from a Grado Black. I bought a spare slide in cartridge holder (great easy to change feature of these Philips) so I can compare the sound easily on my cartridges. If you get one of these slide in holders look for the better injection molded ones, like the original, and not a 3D printed one which have a rough finish and reportedly don’t fit well or hold up well. If you are buying a used turntable look for the stylus mounting jig that they came with to properly mount the cartridge. The mounting jig is a clear plastic little box that you slide the cartridge holder into to see if the needle is in the exact correct spot and at the proper angle. In college my roommate and I would DJ our parties with our two turntables to have the next request ready. He had the most expensive thing he could find, an Empire turntable, and I could not hear a difference. Those Empire TTs still sell at ridiculous prices and a good, serviced, ready to play Philps GA-212 can usually be found for around $300. Great investment!
need new needle whic comes ou as a component
I bought a 312 in 76 w/ money I made on a paper route. Am heartbroken to discover it being lost in a move. It was a really good, reliable TT that I enjoyed for years. My speed buttons were red and just looking at the pictures of it here brings back so many memories. If you have one, enjoy it and know you have a great piece of equipment!
I have a Phillips 312. I bought it new in Jan. of 1978. Still works well. use it to this day. Now with :ortofon” cartridge. (OM -10) The knobs on left are for (top) anti-skate adjustment – then the two “speed adjusts” for 45 and 33 respectively. Use a light (flouresent works better – but any AC lamp will work) and it is like a “strobe” to the lines on the platter. Slowly adjust (with knob) until lines appear “still.”
And has auto lift and platter turn off at end of record. and has sprung “suspension” — what’s not to like?
I have a 312 that I bought new. I’m having a problem with the 45 rpm speed adjustment. I’ve adjusted it to its’ slowest possible setting but it is still much too fast. Any ideas/details on how I can fix this? Thanks!
The bottom of the turntable needs to be removed, there are three slotted head screws holding it together. There are two separate trimmers on the PCB besides the actual speed dials, which are ment to calibrate the speed dials. Speed dials should be in their center position prior to the calibration. Place the turntable on a an improvised support without the bottom, start it and turn the trimmers until the speed is set. Measure the speed either with a strobe lamp or a smartphone on the platter running a measuring app, like RPM Speed & Wow for Android. Good luck!
I recently purchased a 312 used without the transport screws. I would like to purchase replacements but do not know the specs. Can anyone help?