Philips 312


Philips 312


While the Philips 312 turntable was not considered "high end" in its day it was, and is, a very good entry level TT. Not only that, but it is built well and looks fantastic. It almost has a retro IKEA look to it.  The 312 was made in Holland and is a semi-automatic two speed turntable. At the end of the LP the table stops and the arm lifts but does not return to the holder.


Philips 312


Philips also made a model 212 turntable which looks almost exactly the same as the 312 but does not lift the tonearm at the end of a record. It does stop however. The 212's also used bulbs to light the touch controls instead of the LED's that were used in the most of the 312's. Early 312's have been found to have bulbs as opposed to LED's though.


Philips 312


The Philips 312 is a belt driven TT and features electronic speed control. The platter and the pick up arm are mounted on to a spring suspended sub-chassis to reduce or eliminate noise from vibration. The sub-chassis is dampened and connected to the main chassis. The power switch for the TT's is known to fail from time to time and there have been some who have used computer power switches to replace the broken one. Some modification is required but it can be a very effective fix. HERE is a link to a thread covering one such replacement.


Another couple weaknesses of these tables are the RCA connectors and tonearm bearings. The RCA connectors are not very high quality but fortunately they are fairly easy to replace. The tonearm bearings are nylon and can crack with age if they dry out. So, be aware of those problems if you're looking at 312's to purchase.


Philips 312 Touch Buttons


Here you can see the cool lit touch controls that the Philips 312 and 212 are known for. Just a light touch of the button and the turntable will start spinning. If your 312 has bulbs and they are burned out it can be a reason for the touch controls to not work. Bulbs are available from time to time on eBay.


Lamp Kit for 212 312 Turntable 3345STOP Replacement Bulbs
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Philips 312 Back


If you're just getting into vinyl or are on a budget the Philips 312 can be a good choice. It's easy to use, easy to maintain and has the auto stop function. Plus it will look very cool in your audio setup. When looking at them be sure to check the belt, the bulbs and touch controls, as well as the power switch. Overall, this is a great TT (I have two of them) if you can find one in good working order or one that has been serviced and/or restored.

The 312 can reach $300 in fully restored condition but can be found for around $100-$200 in good working condition.


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18 thoughts on “Philips 312

  1. I’ve got one of these, and I love it. I’m looking for a replacement dust cover. Do you have any idea where I might find one?
    Thanks, Sean

  2. I have a Philips 312. it will only play if I stand with a finger on the speed button. The moment I release pressure, the Stop button lights, arm lifts, etc.
    Is there a remedy for this?

    1. The problem is probably a bulb/sensor that could have gone bad and now always thinks the arm is at the end. Two options – you need to replace the bulb or adjust a potentiometer on the PCB.

      (I am not an expert, so don’t quote me on that) 🙂

  3. I have one that I picked up for $20. I would like to know what the knobs on the right side should be set at, Why is there a ground wire? and how to get my tone arm pick up to fully raise. Oh, a manual would be nice as well

    1. The bottom two knobs adjust the speed of the 45RPM and the 33RPM settings and the top knob is for adjustment of the anti-skate (I think that is what it is). The ground wire should be connected to a ground terminal on your preamplifier/amplifier, this reduces noise. If you do not have a ground terminal, just connect it to any exposed metal part of your amp/preamp. (I keep it under a screw) The manual can be found on VinylEngine. Please be aware that you may need to register to view the pdf.

    2. I’ll tell you how to get our tone arm to fully raise. People keep saying “go to the manual”, which is not helpful at all. You’ll have to unscrew the 3 screws under the TT and carefully lift up. Take your platter off first. It just simply come off by lifting it up and off. When you have the TT lifted up, you will see a flathead screw (mine was grey) underneath the tonearm lift. Turn it to the LEFT ( if memory serves well) to raise it up. You’ll see it raise as you turn the screw. It’s that simple. No manual needed. Now if I can find someone like me to tell me how to fix the “auto-off” function.

  4. When was the Philips 212 turntable sold? I still have mine from 1974 and it works just fine. Was able to find a kit on line to replace the belt and such some years ago and bulbs for the speed controller buttons. Just curious?

  5. Hi. We have Philips 312 model and it was working fine at first but then needle started skipping sort of, don’t know how to explain that..sometimes we tap it and it continues working properly and sometimes you can hear like a far away sound from the record like it’s working but the needle is not touching it right.. Do you know what this could be or refer me to a website that sells parts?

  6. Hi, thanks for a really good guide! I just inherited one of these from my grandfather and it looks like it is in really good shape. The only problem I have faced, is that the button that puts down the stick does not hold, if that makes sense.. The stick won’t stay on the vinyl record unless we hold the button down. Is there an easy and cheap way to fix this?
    Also, what would you recommend as an amplifier? We only have the box itself, and no speakers or amplifiers.

  7. Hi there.
    Mine 312 has a din connection and is probably an early version. Mine also has a “thing” behind the power switch and I don’t know what it is. I have not seen similar on any pics on the net and I wonder if it could be mounted by a previous owner?
    It is a sort of glass sylinder with a steel needle in centre wich rises above the cylinder.
    I could have posted a picture if it was possible.

  8. Hi there
    I have probably an early version of this, with din connector. Mine has green lights and a glass sylinder behind the power switch with a steel needle rising through and above it. Can anyone tell me what this is? I have’nt seen this on other pics of the 312 around the net.
    Regards Ronny

  9. I just got back my 312’s from the repair shop. The first one had a problem with a capacitor (it wouldn’t respond to the touch switches) and the other got damaged in shipping when I bought it off Ebay a few years ago; it turned out the tone arm was damaged when they shipped it (I got my money back, and the repair was not as expensive). My original 312 has green lights, whereas the second and newer has the redesigned red ones. I bought the greenie in 1977 and used it until about 2010; then I just stored it. My repair guy says the red light version was newer. So I’ve gone from 2 non-functioning 312s to both working. Total repair cost of $140 (I have no idea if that’s a fair price). I always really liked the looks of this TT (silly, huh?) and it seems to do the job, but I’m no high-ender, obviously. No glass cylinder on mine, by the way. I had no idea there were still so many of these around!

  10. I have a 312 that I inherited. I need a new needle/stylist. Does anyone know where to purchase one? or how to figure out what one I need to order?

  11. Hello
    I have 1 Electronic 312 with green touch controls and 1 electronic 312 with red
    leds touch controls
    Can I change the green with the red touch controls (voltage)??

  12. I’m needing to replace the auto-stop bulb on an early (green light) 312 but I don’t know where it’s located. Can anyone describe or post a photo? I have the replacement bulb now from eBay source but for the life of me can’t see where it goes when the base is opened…

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